Time for the X axis.
I was confused because the parts in this kit didn't match the Prusa build instructions. I contacted Lulzbot, and they emailed me back shortly.
>"Hello again Ron,
>Sorry, those x-ends are our newer x-ends. We sent those to you because they fix the alignment issues we were having with the cast >parts. They only use the bolted bushings, so you will need a few extra M3 screws and nuts. I will be updating the reprap wiki page >this week.
>-Steven A. "
I like these better. They trap the Z axis nut and depend on gravity to minimize the backlash. The bolt on bushings will be easy to replace when they wear.
I broke down and bought the Metric nuts and bolts. They fit the parts real well. I am still using the 5/16 smooth and threaded rods.
In
the photo above,
you can see the newer ends. Even better below. Note the handy dandy
parts bowl. The paste wax is heavy enough the stay where you put it and
there is plenty of room for the small hardware.
I had to buy the 5/16" X and Z smooth rods locally from Fastenal. I used drill rod (silver steel) and paid $4.52 each plus tax for two 36" rods. They were slightly rough with surface rust. I very lightly sanded them lengthwise to return them to smoothness. I imagine rough rods would eat the plastic bushings in short order.
If you don't want to keep up with all this, I plan to post a complete cost breakdown after the build is complete.
Black on black in hard to see if you don't know what you are looking at. Below is a photo from Lulzbot.
I had to buy the 5/16" X and Z smooth rods locally from Fastenal. I used drill rod (silver steel) and paid $4.52 each plus tax for two 36" rods. They were slightly rough with surface rust. I very lightly sanded them lengthwise to return them to smoothness. I imagine rough rods would eat the plastic bushings in short order.
If you don't want to keep up with all this, I plan to post a complete cost breakdown after the build is complete.
Black on black in hard to see if you don't know what you are looking at. Below is a photo from Lulzbot.
If you click on it, it's pretty easy to see the red parts gripping the vertical rod.
Watch what you are doing when buying metric hardware in the US. The washer on the left is M3, the right is 4-40. Careful not to mix them up!<GRIN> That is a 4-40 on the M3-20 bolt. The reason I am showing this, the M3 costs 15¢ each, while the 4-40 goes for less than 3 cents. $2.69 for a box of 100 at Ace hardware. Hey, a washer is a washer.
This is a closer look at the rod bushings. The 'winged' ones are for bolting on, the 'wingless' is glue only. That's the X axis carriage designed for the winged bushings.
By the way, Jeff from Lulzbot said:
>"FYI, we recommend sliding the bushings onto the rods, not snapping them on. We
>print them extra heavy (at least compared to many we've seen) because that
>works better. But PLA is more brittle than ABS, so they can crack when bent.
>So sliding on is a better practice.
>As for the X/Y pulley, as Seth says "there's some debate as to whether Prusa
>designed that for an M4 not an M3". Note, we also included a larger X/Y pulley
>that can be used in place of the smaller Prusa one. This one:
>http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10848
>Thanks for your informative postings! Every employee here reads them. We look
>forward to the next installment.
>-Jeff Moe
In anticipation of working on the hot end, I snagged this from ebay seller firstlevelgoods. The auction number was 230673857511, and I paid $17.88 US with free delivery to Florida, USA. Bought on Wednesday and it arrived the following Monday. I am happy with it, and the fast shipping. It even came with the 9V battery.
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